A cold Sunday November morning inside the Church of Santa Corona.

This church is right in the middle of the centro, near busy streets with shops and bars. You might walk by not knowing the treasures you find inside. Before you go in you’ll have to buy a ticket from the Tourist Office in Piazza Matteotti, a five minute walk away, and then you’re all set!

Let’s go back in time to where it all began in 1260, when a church was built to house a thorn from the crown of thorns (santa corona) of Jesus, gifted by Lous IX of France to the bishop of Vicenza, Bartolomeo of Breganze.

That was just the beginning and since then, this place has really seen it all: a potted history would include big changes in function and size with parts rebuilt and chapels added here and there. It was painted grey on the outside during the plague of 1630; under the occupation of Napoleon, the Dominican friars were forced to leave and parts of the church were looted. It was even bombed and damaged during World War II; so it’s a miracle that it’s still here!

Like many buildings in the Veneto region, it’s been restored after having been damaged from the incessant rain and rising damp. As you see it now, the building is safe, the frescoes and stained glass windows have been extensively restored and the paintings lovingly and expertly brought back to their former glory. As you enter you are greeted by a magnificent nave with high ceilings that make you feel so so small.

‘THE ADORATION OF THE MAGI‘ by Paolo Veronese, late 1573, in the chapel of St Joseph (Capella di San Giuseppe), on the right of the nave. It’s like looking at a huge traditional Christmas card—the ones with a Nativity scene. There is Mary with a wriggling baby, Jesus in one corner and behind them are some of the animals from the stable, like the cow blowing his warming breath on the baby. And then there are the Wise Men from the East carrying precious and exotic gifts and wearing sumptuous robes in vibrant colours.

‘THE CHAPEL OF THE ROSARY‘

‘THE VALMARANA CHAPEL‘ in the Crypt. Designed by Andrea Palladio and containing sculptures of Christ, Saint Louis and Bartolomeo of Breganze. This group is stunning in its ivory-white and bare simplicity.

‘THE MAIN CHAPEL‘ with its truly incredible altar made of many marble inlays representing biblical scenes and decorated with fruits on winding stems.
Around the altar are carved wooden choir stalls and magnificent stained glass windows. Probably one of my favourite parts of the church as it’s relatively hidden and has an atmosphere all of its own.

‘THE CHAPEL OF THE HOLY THORN‘ dedicated to Bartolomeo of Breganze. You might expect the holy thorn to be here, given the origins of the church, but it’s actually inside a golden container along with other items of sacred art in the Diocesano Museum in Piazza Duomo in Vicenza; returning for display on Good Friday during the Easter celebrations.

‘THE BAPTISM OF CHRIST‘ by Giovanni Bellini supported on the Garzadori Altar. You could say I’ve saved the best for last. You will feel dwarfed by the beauty and detail both of the painting and the altar.