We love Greece as I’m imagining many of you do, too. But the choice between all those islands can be a tough one, so let me tell you that Crete is definitely worth going to. We chose the Chania region of West Crete for our perfect summer holiday, so read on and I’ll tell you where to go!
Balos Beach
This was a family reunion holiday for us; distance, studies and work had kept us apart for too long so we wanted to spend time together doing what we all love: swimming, walking in nature and enjoying tasty foodie moments.
On Crete we found this and more: friendly and hospitable people, adorable cats and kittens., quiet coves sheltering rock pools of deep and rich blue-green water; surprisingly lush hills dense with olive groves and finally meals prepared with loving care as if you were some distant relative come to visit.
We went in late July as a family of four (two parents and two adult sons) with Ryanair, travelling to Chania with one small cabin bag each plus a 20kg allowance for which we used the Forclaz Trekking bag, from Decathlon. This was fine for our 12-day trip. Inside we stored our stuff in white and grey packing cubes, each one lovingly and obsessively labelled for type: boys’ swimwear; hiking; underwear; my beachwear . . . so useful as we changed location frequently and we were able to find what we needed fairly quickly.
Apart from the first three nights, all the bookings were made the day before so that we were free to decide where we wanted to go based on what we’d been doing before. So when we needed a break from the sea and the sun, we stayed over in the mountains. And then returned to the beach…
We organised a rental car through Car For You before our visit, chosen because the quality to price ratio was good and because we wanted to support a family business. Who wouldn’t? All went well and we were met outside by someone who helped us fill out the papers and gave us the keys to the car waiting directly in front of us, a Fiat tipo.
Our Itinerary
Day 1
Chania
For lunch we went to TO DICHALO. We were starving after our early morning flight so we were the first customers in this tavern, set under a huge rubber tree. I had the pastitsio, a satisfying Greek grandma type of dish of baked pasta, made with tube pasta, beef and bechamel sauce. In the afternoon we just stayed in the pool and chilled.
For dinner we went to Thalassino Ageri (book beforehand). You will love the location- wooden tables on a short stretch of sand and pebbles with the waves crashing in for music and the sunset gleaming on the water. And of course the food is great. Dress code casual chic—just so you know.
Sleeping at: Chania Souvlakis Pool Suites €126.50
Including breakfast Great value for a big apartment with an unexpected little staircase leading to one of the bedrooms nicely tucked away. Our big boys actually fought over who was going to sleep there!
Day 2
Chania to Kissamos
We drove west from Chania, destination Kissamos, stopping off along the way for a swim near Odigitria Gonia Monastery. Only locals here including a middle-aged couple dressed for fishing with snorkel and spear for him and knife on a thigh belt and net for her. They slipped into the water like sea mammals and spent the next few hours half submerged and filling that net. So cool.
Odigitria Gonia Monastery, Kolymvari
Lunch: KALI KARDIA, a typical tavern in the hills. There is another one close by with similar good reviews so we tossed a coin and chose this one.
Sleeping at: Kissamos Camping Nopigia €60.30
Good for an adventure. You can hear the sea at night from your tent. The pool is big and the people are friendly. Personally, I struggled with the noise of the screaming cicadas in the trees. They literally start the second you poke your nose out of the tent in the morning and
Day 3
Kissamos to Balos Beach
Balos Beach is a must do. It gets busy, yes, but it’s a big place and absorbs those people fairly well. If you get there early you can choose a place on the strip of sand between the lagoon and the sea (€20 for beach umbrella + two loungers). This place stayed relatively quiet during our morning stay. There’s also a WC nearby (50c in the honesty box) and a bar/cafē for a piece of pizza and ritual morning ice coffee.
Balos Beach
How to get there: we followed the signs to Balos Beach and arrived at the first toll around 7:15am and paid around €2 each to take the stony dirt track along the coast and down to the car park with Greek music playing on the radio, the sun rising over the sea to our right and the odd herd of goats blocking our path as went. Happy days! This is slow-going so expect at least 20’ driving and then from the car park (€5 total) you will have to walk down to the beach- at least another 20’ down a rough path so make sure you’re wearing trainers for this part and remember that the return in the heat later on will be even more demanding.
Balos Beach
Dinner at Gramvoussa a dynamic concept which includes a large restaurant laid out in several rooms and floors and offering elevated traditional dishes. The food was tasty and filling. There’s also a kitchen garden and event place complete with long trestle tables and pumpkins and a more intimate garden bar area with hay bales for seats and subtle evening lighting.
Sleeping at: Kissamos Camping Nopigia €60.30
Day 4
Kissamos to Elafonissi
On the way to our next destination we did part of the hiking trail through Kampos Gorge to Platanakia Beach.
Kampos Gorge
Kampos Gorge
Sleeping at: Elafonissi Cove Elafonissi Apartments, Agios Panteleimon €101,50
Modern apartment with stylish touches and tucked away from the main road.
Day 5
Elafonissi
The pink beach of Elafonissi which is made in part of grains of sand that have a pinkish hue. The same mantra as before- arrive early. There’s a big car park which costs €5 a day and from there an easy walk down to the beach. As at Balos, you can rent sun loungers and parasols, the bar/café has reasonably priced snacks, and you can enjoy all the morning before it gets too busy.
Gift shopping at HEDGEHOG, Vathi for bags, jewellery and summer items.
Afternoon swimming at the little cove nearby which is in the name of our apartment.
Dinner: THE WEST, tavern at Kampos with typical Cretan music.
Sleeping at: Elafonissi Cove Elafonissi Apartments, Agios Panteleimon €101,50
Day 6
Elafonissi to Paleochora
First stop at Kedrodasos Beach. Then we got back on the road and drove via Elios to Paleochora.
Sklavopoula, near Kedrodasos Beach
Perched on a high and windy road leaving the town, this place made us feel very welcome with a bowl of fresh fruit and some snacks and drinks in the fridge. This is Greek hospitality!
Dinner: Samaria. This place gets positive reviews for its tasty food and cute location inside a sort of walled garden but on the evening we were there it lacked the warm atmosphere we’d found in other restaurants. Paleochora is a very pretty place with plenty of shops and restaurants set out on four main streets so after the beach it’s perfect for cocktails, dinner and browsing.
Sleeping at: Paleochora Allview apartments, Paleochora €96,50
Set just behind the main streets, this hotel is surprisingly quiet. We had two hotel rooms here. Sometimes it’s nice to have your own space once in a while.
Day 7
Paleochora
Breakfast at Palm Tree Bar Café. Nice vibe here. Everything is freshly made. I has a special omelette with ham, cheese and vegetables which I intend to try out at home. Next door there’s an excellent pastry shop for snacks later on.
Dinner: Family Grill House: you can’t come to Greece without eating a pita gyros or two (or even three) washed down with ice cold beer. Even while I’m writing this, I’m still eating one in my mind!
Sleeping at: Paleochora Hotel Aghas, Paleochora €133,00
Day 8
Paleochora to Omalos
Omalos
Paleochora was very hot and we gave ourselves a break from the heat, arriving at Omalos in flip flops and shorts to find silence and fresher air. We had our dinner at the owners’ tavern nearby. We had a filling rustic meal and then walk back home in the darkness under a starry sky, the smell of animals and nature in the air.
Sleeping at: Omalos Omalós Village, Omalós €123.00
A big house for us to spread out in. Everyone heads off to do their thing: laundry, charging devices, making coffee. The air outside is cool and fresh. All you can hear is the wind and far off sheep bells. I imagine what this place must be like in winter. There is a covered outdoor pool to protect you from the wind and I have an hour to myself while the others go running in the hills.
Day 9
Omalos to Agriles
Hiking through Agia Irini gorge. Park your car near the entrance and start hiking. You will need to pay a toll of €2 in cash at a cabin located about 5 minutes inside. The hike is not difficult, mostly downhill along big rocks but you still need to be in decent shape. Once out of the gorge you are blessed with a surprisingly good cafe restaurant and from there they will call a taxi to take you back to your car (30-minute drive, around €10 each).
Lunch: OASIS my Cretan salad was colourful and beautifully presented and I promise myself to recreate this at home.
Dinner: at the restaurant opposite Minos, run by the same owner. During the evening some firemen pull up to take out a couple of iced coffees and they are made welcome and made a fuss of by the owners and I can guess from the dynamics and gestures that there’s some ‘This one is on us. We appreciate what you’re doing every day to keep our territory and our people safe’ going on’. And off they go into the night while we continue with our meal.
Sleeping at: Agriles Minos Country Living Apartments, Agriles, €122.27
Beautiful chill area around the pool with flowers, trees and a view to the hills and beautiful interiors.
Day 10
Agriles to Sougia
This beach village has a very laid-back vibe, like you will see the new generation of hippies. The whole place feels chill and relaxed. Just €8 for parasol and two loungers- I thought I’d misheard the first time! There’s a handy store nearby for food and snacks and even simple gifts to take home like soaps, honey and dried herbs.
Dinner: REBETIKO taverna. Great food as usual. Big portions so you might want to think about sharing.
Sleeping at: Sougia Stelios Studios, Sougia, €148.00 for two apartments.
Day 11
Sougia to Marathi, Chania area
Lunch at VERANDA, Marathi Beach. Touristy and busy but the food was still good.
Dinner: take out pita gyros which we ate in the garden dining area of our villa followed by another dip in the pool.
La Siesta, Marathi
Sleeping at: La Siesta, Marathi, €127,50
Marathi is a busy beach town close to Chania Airport. We were the only ones booked in so we had all the outside area to ourselves- veranda with hammocks, pool, garden and outdoor kitchen. We really got lucky!
Day 12
Marathi to Milan
(Our last for the moment) early morning swim was at Marathi beach with the locals. And a time to reflect on all the good times this past week had given us. Our host was generous enough to let us have a late check-out so we stayed until lunch at Barbantonis.
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